Candle Makers' secrets - 20 top tips!

Daily emails ask simple questions that will seem obvious once you get started. I thought it would be a good to idea to keep sharing some of the basic FAQ's here and direct you to some of the information pages that may assist you.




There are also great Free and Short videos on our site, like seeing a mini class.
I do hope all these tips help you make candle making a fun and satisfying craft!

1. wick size is about the diameter of the candle and the melt pool it creates, all depends on the flame size
   
2. in moulds, use cotton wick secured at each end
3. in containers use pre-waxed wick and tab assemblies with a base to hold it in place
   
4. pillar wax must be strong and firm, and contract from the mould - no lubricant is required for a good wax
5. beeswax will struggle to burn well if it has honey or debris still in it - wash and filter well ( see earlier blog post)
6. C-soy wax is our choice for containers - it has a low melt point and adheres well to the sides of the glass for a better look
7. use a thermometer to drop the C-soy wax to a pour temp of 60C or less for best look
   
8. don't over fragrance - it will impact the stability of the wax and the burn may be smokey and too fast. Be aware that cheap fragrances will require more...(not so cheap!)..we suggest 10-20ml only
   
9. all waxes should be melted in a double saucepan - water has a max. temperature of 100C so you will never have a fire from overheated wax
10. always pour with your glass or moulds in a tray (large baking dish, kitty litter tray etc)
11. a shiny candle has been poured 'hot' - 80C or over
12. icicles and feather palm wax show their patterns best when poured over 90C
13. textured candles are poured cold - they begin to set as they hit the mould
14. when choosing a pour temperature consider the mould and its heat restrictions
15. use continuous wicking where possible to save heaps of time (see blog)
16. beeswax can be used successfully in silicon, most 2 part moulds, pyramids and wider columns
17. icicle and feather palm are gorgeous in our metal columns and silicon moulds as they can tolerate higher pour temperatures
18. always poke at the bottom of the candle as it cools to form channels into the contraction cavity - see info sheet about making palm candles that is relevant to any pillar candle
19. when making tea lights part fill them, stand the wick, then fill at leisure
20. experiment with your waxes, we love to mix soy with beeswax, container maker with beeswax

Beeswax revealed

My previous blogs show that I love beeswax! and of course beeswax candles.
But have you ever had a batch that just won't burn? (flame in rear of photo)
You'ld never buy a batch like that from us, but if a friend hands you some it just could be a 'no-burn' wax, read on...


We recommend you test a batch before before you start making your candles.
Dig a hole with a skewer and pop in a piece of wick:

• does it burn with a strong flame? (flame in front)
  
• does it burn for hours?

If not, and the flame is struggling then you need to FIX the wax.

• use the double saucepan method to safely melt the wax
• add water into the wax pot, about 1/3
• melt the wax at a high simmer
• stir the water through the melted wax - this will dissolve any honey and nectar still in the wax - you will be surprised how coloured the water will be with dissolved 'pollutants'
  
• you could even repeat this with a second wash - take the top wax off and filter it into the second pot through a cloth and stocking filter
• take the wax off the top and filter it into your final moulding / container.

The filtering needs to be fine. In the second photo you can see the fine material that has moved into the wick and choked it. No wax can move up the wick to the flame.

We were shocked the first time we tested wax that did not burn. A few customers had told me of their plight with wax directly from the hive. We were quite astonished to stumble on a batch ourselves. It looked clean and absolutely gorgeous with a strong gold colour that is so admired by candle makers. There was no indication of the fine black particles held in suspension or the presence of the honey and pollen.

To buy best beeswax, shop on our site or give us a call on 02 9653 3600.
Hope that helps you,
from www.candlemaking.com.au

Pure Beeswax

Following on the theme of candle making made easy, here is a video using beeswax foundation sheets.

Maybe as a child you rolled some beeswax candles, as an adult it is a decorator's dream.
You can roll a candle any size, just right for your candle holder. No more searching shops for the right candle when you can do it yourself.

The one I present on this video uses 2 colours so there is contrast, but just as easily it could be done as a single as a dinner taper.

I often recommend this simple candle kit. There is no melting, and it can be done on any flat surface (you know your friends will want to do it too, it's fun and easy!!).

It's also really good to hand out to children when you visit the family, it will keep them busy for hours.
I have suggested to school groups that the children decorate small glass jars with glass paints or labels, then simply roll a candle that fits inside. TWO projects in one!

If you would like to know about beeswax foundation sheets read on:

• pure beeswax sheets 20cm x 40cm in 6 different colours
  
• they feature a honeycomb pattern stamped into them


• this 6 sided pattern replicates the pattern of the hive and forms the foundation of their honeycomb


• the bees build out from the foundation sheet then fill the tubes with honey, then the bees cap off the honey


• apiartists (bee keepers) cut the cappings off which is the purest beeswax


• then the honey is spun out from the tubes


• the honeycomb is put back into the hives to be filled by the bees again


• this cycles through a few times then all the beeswax is melted down and a new foundation sheet begins the cycle again

I wish you all the creative best!