Palm wax IS all it's cracked up to be!

Palm wax makes the most rewarding natural candles - they look spectacular and burn really well.
Each wax has its idiosyncrasies in the making. Palm wax is no different, so a few hints are below to help.




There is high chance that the palm wax will track through the wick and out past your seal - be sure to cover the wick completely with sealer (blue tack).






Melt your wax over a double boiler - see our previous blog
If you are after a crystal pattern from your palm wax, raise the water to boil, so the wax increases to about 95°C. Metal moulds work best as they heat quickly and allow the wax to form crystals at its own pace.




The shell forms quickly and becomes quite rigid appearing to have no contraction - break the surface regularly as the candle cools so there is a channel into the insides for topping up later.






The pour temperature is dependent on the moulds: metal can be poured high, as can silicon, but be mindful of manufacturer's recommendations on PVC etc.

Once the candle is cold, it can be topped up like any other candle, the base finished and the wick waxed.



Palm candles are an absolute wonder when they are removed from the mould - each shape impacts the lay of the crystals, so go experiment!
All Australian Candle Making Supplies and Kits has all the right products for making these beautiful candles.
For more details see the site for free on-line videos and 'how to' pages.

How much do I need?

'I have the moulds, glasses, carton....but don't know how much wax or soap to buy?'
This is anther common question with a nice easy answer.

You can fill the mould or cup with water and tip it into a measuring jug. This roughly converts volume to weight.
It is close enough to indicate how much you should buy / melt.
Another way I like to do it is with rice. The moulds stay dry with rice, and if the mould is clean, the rice can just go back into its container.
For small moulds you may need to do it a few times and divide the toal volume by the number of fills, eg:

• 300 water in a measuring jug after filling a glass candle holder 4 times
  
• approximately 300gm wax needed for 4 candles - 75gm per candle.
  

Natural Colours

Natural colour has now been added to our range. It is sold in 10ml bottles with a dropper. The depth of colour varies depending on the base product you are using. They can be used in both soap bases and natural candle wax.

The colours are tumeric 'yellow', annatto 'orange', spinach 'green' and paprika 'red'.

SOAP: When you put some in the soap base, it will shows its true colour.
We are currently checking the movment of the colours - will they bleed across barriers.

NATURAL CANDLE WAX: Drop the colour into candle wax and allow it to warm for best mixing. You will need to cool it before seeing the final colour. (A small test amount can be cooled in a cup of water).
See the site for ordering www.candlemaking.com.au

Pure Beeswax

Following on the theme of candle making made easy, here is a video using beeswax foundation sheets.

Maybe as a child you rolled some beeswax candles, as an adult it is a decorator's dream.
You can roll a candle any size, just right for your candle holder. No more searching shops for the right candle when you can do it yourself.

The one I present on this video uses 2 colours so there is contrast, but just as easily it could be done as a single as a dinner taper.

I often recommend this simple candle kit. There is no melting, and it can be done on any flat surface (you know your friends will want to do it too, it's fun and easy!!).

It's also really good to hand out to children when you visit the family, it will keep them busy for hours.
I have suggested to school groups that the children decorate small glass jars with glass paints or labels, then simply roll a candle that fits inside. TWO projects in one!

If you would like to know about beeswax foundation sheets read on:

• pure beeswax sheets 20cm x 40cm in 6 different colours
  
• they feature a honeycomb pattern stamped into them


• this 6 sided pattern replicates the pattern of the hive and forms the foundation of their honeycomb


• the bees build out from the foundation sheet then fill the tubes with honey, then the bees cap off the honey


• apiartists (bee keepers) cut the cappings off which is the purest beeswax


• then the honey is spun out from the tubes


• the honeycomb is put back into the hives to be filled by the bees again


• this cycles through a few times then all the beeswax is melted down and a new foundation sheet begins the cycle again

I wish you all the creative best!