Candle Makers' secrets - 20 top tips!

Daily emails ask simple questions that will seem obvious once you get started. I thought it would be a good to idea to keep sharing some of the basic FAQ's here and direct you to some of the information pages that may assist you.




There are also great Free and Short videos on our site, like seeing a mini class.
I do hope all these tips help you make candle making a fun and satisfying craft!

1. wick size is about the diameter of the candle and the melt pool it creates, all depends on the flame size
   
2. in moulds, use cotton wick secured at each end
3. in containers use pre-waxed wick and tab assemblies with a base to hold it in place
   
4. pillar wax must be strong and firm, and contract from the mould - no lubricant is required for a good wax
5. beeswax will struggle to burn well if it has honey or debris still in it - wash and filter well ( see earlier blog post)
6. C-soy wax is our choice for containers - it has a low melt point and adheres well to the sides of the glass for a better look
7. use a thermometer to drop the C-soy wax to a pour temp of 60C or less for best look
   
8. don't over fragrance - it will impact the stability of the wax and the burn may be smokey and too fast. Be aware that cheap fragrances will require more...(not so cheap!)..we suggest 10-20ml only
   
9. all waxes should be melted in a double saucepan - water has a max. temperature of 100C so you will never have a fire from overheated wax
10. always pour with your glass or moulds in a tray (large baking dish, kitty litter tray etc)
11. a shiny candle has been poured 'hot' - 80C or over
12. icicles and feather palm wax show their patterns best when poured over 90C
13. textured candles are poured cold - they begin to set as they hit the mould
14. when choosing a pour temperature consider the mould and its heat restrictions
15. use continuous wicking where possible to save heaps of time (see blog)
16. beeswax can be used successfully in silicon, most 2 part moulds, pyramids and wider columns
17. icicle and feather palm are gorgeous in our metal columns and silicon moulds as they can tolerate higher pour temperatures
18. always poke at the bottom of the candle as it cools to form channels into the contraction cavity - see info sheet about making palm candles that is relevant to any pillar candle
19. when making tea lights part fill them, stand the wick, then fill at leisure
20. experiment with your waxes, we love to mix soy with beeswax, container maker with beeswax

Uni-Soy, the most versatile soy wax ever!

We've imported the best soy ever. Pure soy wax with a melt temperature of 60 it can be manipulated to your needs.
Basically a container candle is expected to:

1. melt right across, with no crater effect
2. adhere to the walls of the containers, a purely visual expectation

In containers you can also load your fragrance a little heavier, as melting is no issue.

• Melt Uni-Soy and add 'container maker' at the rate of 200-300ml per kg once melted. Then add your colour and fragrance choices.

• Tip: allow the wax mixture to cool to 60-65 and pour into warmed glass.

For a perfect pillar melt Uni-Soy with 20% of a harder wax.
We have tested it with wax improver, aura palm wax and beeswax. The addition of paraffin would also be acceptable.
Tests have shown a 6 hour burn with a rim of 5mm which is
extra-ordinary.

This wax has taught us to be brave and try new mixes, do not be limited by a wax or blend.
See the next blog for lots of other great ideas!

Palm wax IS all it's cracked up to be!

Palm wax makes the most rewarding natural candles - they look spectacular and burn really well.
Each wax has its idiosyncrasies in the making. Palm wax is no different, so a few hints are below to help.




There is high chance that the palm wax will track through the wick and out past your seal - be sure to cover the wick completely with sealer (blue tack).






Melt your wax over a double boiler - see our previous blog
If you are after a crystal pattern from your palm wax, raise the water to boil, so the wax increases to about 95°C. Metal moulds work best as they heat quickly and allow the wax to form crystals at its own pace.




The shell forms quickly and becomes quite rigid appearing to have no contraction - break the surface regularly as the candle cools so there is a channel into the insides for topping up later.






The pour temperature is dependent on the moulds: metal can be poured high, as can silicon, but be mindful of manufacturer's recommendations on PVC etc.

Once the candle is cold, it can be topped up like any other candle, the base finished and the wick waxed.



Palm candles are an absolute wonder when they are removed from the mould - each shape impacts the lay of the crystals, so go experiment!
All Australian Candle Making Supplies and Kits has all the right products for making these beautiful candles.
For more details see the site for free on-line videos and 'how to' pages.

Tea Cups and left over candle wax

Ever since we began this business, we have been asked whether old candles can be melted and used again. Yes, of course, if they burned well the first time they can be resurrected!

Divide them into 2 groups. If you want to make moulded candles, use only the really good ones.
The other candles, that burned poorly or melted all over the place, can be used in container candles.

This way, all you need to buy is wick. Moulds can be made or purchased. Containers? there are most likely some candle glasses, ceramics or tea cups around that you can use.

Magazines love to do the 'tea cup' candles. Everyone has hand-me-downs too good to throw out but useless for a good cuppa.

So 4 easy steps follow and you can see the video on http://www.candlemaking.com.au/Making-Soy-Candles-in-Containers-1

1. melt your wax in a double saucepan
2. pour into the container of your choice
3. set the wick and tab assembly in the wax once it has begun setting on the bottom - a skewer might help you position this
4. lie a pencil across the top to hold the wick in the centre as the wax sets

We have the most beautiful soy wax if you want to start from scratch. Add a little fragrance - chai maybe - we don't have Bushell's - and a touch of brown candle dye to help it look a little like tea.

Soy wax and other bits available on www.candlemaking.com.au
All the best!