Beeswax revealed

My previous blogs show that I love beeswax! and of course beeswax candles.
But have you ever had a batch that just won't burn? (flame in rear of photo)
You'ld never buy a batch like that from us, but if a friend hands you some it just could be a 'no-burn' wax, read on...


We recommend you test a batch before before you start making your candles.
Dig a hole with a skewer and pop in a piece of wick:

• does it burn with a strong flame? (flame in front)
  
• does it burn for hours?

If not, and the flame is struggling then you need to FIX the wax.

• use the double saucepan method to safely melt the wax
• add water into the wax pot, about 1/3
• melt the wax at a high simmer
• stir the water through the melted wax - this will dissolve any honey and nectar still in the wax - you will be surprised how coloured the water will be with dissolved 'pollutants'
  
• you could even repeat this with a second wash - take the top wax off and filter it into the second pot through a cloth and stocking filter
• take the wax off the top and filter it into your final moulding / container.

The filtering needs to be fine. In the second photo you can see the fine material that has moved into the wick and choked it. No wax can move up the wick to the flame.

We were shocked the first time we tested wax that did not burn. A few customers had told me of their plight with wax directly from the hive. We were quite astonished to stumble on a batch ourselves. It looked clean and absolutely gorgeous with a strong gold colour that is so admired by candle makers. There was no indication of the fine black particles held in suspension or the presence of the honey and pollen.

To buy best beeswax, shop on our site or give us a call on 02 9653 3600.
Hope that helps you,
from www.candlemaking.com.au

Palm wax IS all it's cracked up to be!

Palm wax makes the most rewarding natural candles - they look spectacular and burn really well.
Each wax has its idiosyncrasies in the making. Palm wax is no different, so a few hints are below to help.




There is high chance that the palm wax will track through the wick and out past your seal - be sure to cover the wick completely with sealer (blue tack).






Melt your wax over a double boiler - see our previous blog
If you are after a crystal pattern from your palm wax, raise the water to boil, so the wax increases to about 95°C. Metal moulds work best as they heat quickly and allow the wax to form crystals at its own pace.




The shell forms quickly and becomes quite rigid appearing to have no contraction - break the surface regularly as the candle cools so there is a channel into the insides for topping up later.






The pour temperature is dependent on the moulds: metal can be poured high, as can silicon, but be mindful of manufacturer's recommendations on PVC etc.

Once the candle is cold, it can be topped up like any other candle, the base finished and the wick waxed.



Palm candles are an absolute wonder when they are removed from the mould - each shape impacts the lay of the crystals, so go experiment!
All Australian Candle Making Supplies and Kits has all the right products for making these beautiful candles.
For more details see the site for free on-line videos and 'how to' pages.

Natural Colours

Natural colour has now been added to our range. It is sold in 10ml bottles with a dropper. The depth of colour varies depending on the base product you are using. They can be used in both soap bases and natural candle wax.

The colours are tumeric 'yellow', annatto 'orange', spinach 'green' and paprika 'red'.

SOAP: When you put some in the soap base, it will shows its true colour.
We are currently checking the movment of the colours - will they bleed across barriers.

NATURAL CANDLE WAX: Drop the colour into candle wax and allow it to warm for best mixing. You will need to cool it before seeing the final colour. (A small test amount can be cooled in a cup of water).
See the site for ordering www.candlemaking.com.au

How do I choose a wick?

...which could also help people asking why the candle drowns or why does the candle melt all over the table?

Getting the right wick is critical. The candle needs to burn with a small edge around it. Do candles have a memory for this edge?? NO!!! how could it?

The candle will melt through the wall and create a new melt area if you leave it longer than the first burn. It sounds too good to be true and it is!

• the size of the flame is dictated by the diameter / fatness of the wick

• cotton doesn't 'want' to burn
• the fuel is the melted wax

Some suggestions for sizing:

• the easier your wax melts - the smaller the wick should be. A small flame will quickly get the melting happenning.

• if your wax has a high melt temperature - the wick needs to be larger for a larger flame and more heat.

• if you burn for long periods, over 4 hours, then you may need to use a smaller wick as the flame will warm the candle, making melting easier.

• if you burn for short periods, maybe just at dinner time, then you could use a larger wick to increase the melt area.

On the site we have recommendations to help your first purchase, but I always suggest that you burn your candles and decide for yourself if it suits you.
Container candles are much simpler - you can use ready assembled wick and stabiliser tabs that simply stand in wax once it has begun to set. Because you want the lot to melt with no edge, having a melty wax is preferable and the amount of fragrance can be increased too.

Pure Beeswax

Following on the theme of candle making made easy, here is a video using beeswax foundation sheets.

Maybe as a child you rolled some beeswax candles, as an adult it is a decorator's dream.
You can roll a candle any size, just right for your candle holder. No more searching shops for the right candle when you can do it yourself.

The one I present on this video uses 2 colours so there is contrast, but just as easily it could be done as a single as a dinner taper.

I often recommend this simple candle kit. There is no melting, and it can be done on any flat surface (you know your friends will want to do it too, it's fun and easy!!).

It's also really good to hand out to children when you visit the family, it will keep them busy for hours.
I have suggested to school groups that the children decorate small glass jars with glass paints or labels, then simply roll a candle that fits inside. TWO projects in one!

If you would like to know about beeswax foundation sheets read on:

• pure beeswax sheets 20cm x 40cm in 6 different colours
  
• they feature a honeycomb pattern stamped into them


• this 6 sided pattern replicates the pattern of the hive and forms the foundation of their honeycomb


• the bees build out from the foundation sheet then fill the tubes with honey, then the bees cap off the honey


• apiartists (bee keepers) cut the cappings off which is the purest beeswax


• then the honey is spun out from the tubes


• the honeycomb is put back into the hives to be filled by the bees again


• this cycles through a few times then all the beeswax is melted down and a new foundation sheet begins the cycle again

I wish you all the creative best!